Byron Bay

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Feb 09 09 In Byron Bay Today

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It was another beautiful day . Until I turned on the TV news for the first time in three days, my God, the fires. Those poor souls in Victoria our hearts go out to you. We’ve met some very beautiful human beings in Byron Bay who hail from Victoria. To you all, we sincerely pray you’re safe. Ok it feels weird no matter what I write now, yet life goes on. Today the swell was big, the crowd was even bigger, and several folk were injured badly, including the much loved Magic Rabbit. Leroy received six stiches to his head when some git just let his board go in front of him. We hope you heal soon buddy. I don’t really want to write about the crowds anymore. After all it’s been crowded here for many years when the swell jumps. Fact is I’m powerless over the behaviour of others. I can only hope that one day people will wake up to the fact that surfing is actually a soulful leisure activity. Competitive behaviour belongs in competitions; it doesn’t belong in the line-up .
To all those happy dudes and dudettes, that struck a pose for us today, we’d just like to say. Thank you, for being .