Byron Bay

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Feb 12 09 In Byron Bay Today

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Yeah I know, where’s that new swell that was supposed to arrive ? Oh well the idea of a new swell was just an opinion, not a prediction. Speaking of opinions there was much standing around in the car park today, waiting for the tide to drop and the rain to stop. Naturally these times give way to philosophising with the local crew about the state of surfing and life in general as we know it. Fun for us old blokes I suppose, but we were all pretty relieved to see the tide drop enough for a few little slides to start breaking. A little later the local kids got out there after school. They don’t care it’s tiny they’re just totally stoked to be wet. Sometimes I watch the little ones and they teach me so much about why I still surf after forty years. It’s so easy to get lost in ego, tied up in imagery and hardcore surf industry propaganda. When I watch the little ones getting stoked, it reminds me that I’m still stoked too. So tiny or not I passed the camera to a trusted friend and paddled out to have a hoot with the little ones . Just a thought; Cool is cold, warm is cool.
To all those wonderful beings, that struck a pose for us today, we’d just like to say. Thank you, for being .